Essay Title: 

Descriptive essay on Surfing

March 23, 2016 | Author: | Posted in health and medicine, sport

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September 24 , 2006


According Wikipedia the free encyclopedia , Surfing is a surface water sport in which a participant is carried by a breaking wave ‘ Surfing can be categorized based on different methods adopted or vehicles utilized for riding a wave . The different categories of surfing are

Regular stand-up surfing





Ben Marcus stated on the WWW that surfing was first noticed by Captain Cook in Hawaii Island when he arrived with his two ships HMS Discovery [banner_entry_middle]

br and Resolution . Hawaiian surfing was first recorded by the commander of Discovery , Lt . James King in the ships log book in the 1779

According Wikipedia the free encyclopedia various factors such as bathymetry of the surf break , direction and size of the swell direction and strength of the wind and flow of the tide ‘ influence the shape and quality of breaking waves . A surfer essentially needs to be sensitive to all the above factors to understand a surf break and every break is different from the other since underwater topography may certainly differ from place to place . The sandbanks may change shape from week to week at beach breaks . Advances in information technology have helped in surf forecasting , graphical depiction of the size and direction of swells with the help of mathematical models

In winter months at mid-latitudes westerly winds produce swells that move eastward producing larger waves on the west coasts whereas in summer months heavy swells are generated due to the formation of tropical cyclones over warm seas . Movements of cyclones are unpredictable and occur due to the influence of El Niso La Nisa cycles

Surfing actually starts with a surfer eyeing for a rideable wave , once the surfer is carried forward by the wave he or she jumps to his or her feet , the action termed pop-up ‘ only to ride down the face of the wave and staying ahead of the breaking part of the wave in a place called the pocket ‘ or the curl

A surfer is required to be skilled in maneuvering the waves by riding on challenging waves with an ability to control the board , turning and carving

Ben Marcus stated on the WWW that Hawaiian ‘s used long hardwood surfboards for surfing , but according to surfing-waves .com there are many types of boards presently in use such as short board , Long board or the Malibu , the Fish and the Gun . The best board recommended for a starter is a Long board or the Malibu

According to the National Surf Schools Instructors Association (NSSIA on the WWW following safety rules need to be followed

All surfers must know swimming

As far as possible surfing must be done on a life guarded beach

If caught in a rip current , the surfer must avoid swimming against the current and swim along the wave and swim ashore once the current is relaxed

Protection of head and neck is important when diving , thus during surfing the surfer must fall off the surfboard flat… [banner_entry_footer]

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